June 28, 2015

Hat Histories: Elsa Schiaparelli


Today we admire the hats of designer Elsa Schiaparelli, a name best known for eccentric surrealist fashions today, but well known in the thirties for chic and modern clothing. Born in Italy, Schiaparelli eventually settled in Paris after spending time in New York. A friend of Paul Poiret and rival of Chanel, Schiaparelli started designing fashions with a line of knitwear in 1927. Her clients soon included heiress Daisy Fellows, actress Mae West, and semi-royal Wallis Simpson. Though she rose to the heights of fashion royalty in the 30's, Schiaparelli never recovered after the changes in fashion after WWII, closing her couture house in 1954.

Though best known for collaborating with surrealists like Salvador Dali, I personally favor her more wearable designs, like the beautiful hats below!

Summer 1940
Fall 1939
 This hat! Swoon! I love the large ivory Irises paired with the transparent black netting!

Fall 1939
 Gorgeous simplicity in ivory and rusty brown.

Fall 1939
 Fun silk flowers, flowers upon flowers! 

Summer 1935
 Such a great raspberry color, wear at a jaunty angle for instant 30's chic panache.

Summer 1940
 A hat I have tried to replicate! I attempted making a similar piece in the second round of my millinery course I took while studying in London, sadly I never finished the hat, having trouble stabilizing the brim. I'll show you guys the attempt someday :)

Summer 1940
 This hat is to die for! I love the natural looking flowers and leaves.

Fall 1939
 I will be making a berry-tastic hat like this one for fall, I just love it!

Summer 1940
1938
Isn't this last one fun? It reminds me of Blade Runner, pay attention during to the extras in the film and you will see some of them wear very similar hats.

June 26, 2015

Resort 2016 Favorites

(Marchesa)
You guys know how I like to keep up with modern fashion, even if I don't wear modern clothes much at all! Still, bits of vintage and historic fashions are constantly appearing in the work of modern designers. Though the main fashion events each year are the biannual fashion weeks with the spring and fall shows, pre-fall and resort collections punctuate the space in between the main seasons of shows. This year my favorites for resort are not radically different from my usual preferred designers, including Marchesa, McQueen, and Valentino. 

This gown is perfect for a fancy dinner in Kings Landing, just make sure you leave quickly if they start playing the rains of castamere... (Marchesa)
Like being dressed in gold dusted rod iron, in the best possible way! (Marchesa)
This gown reminds me a bit of blue and white delftware pottery, I could do without the pockets though as they seems to be placed at an awkward level. The embroidery is gorgeous though! (Marchesa)
Why the hideous shoes? I just don't know, but the dress is beautiful! For a garden wedding in the south of France perhaps? (McQueen)
I like both of these items, I would love an army green leather jacket with floral embroidery! The gown could use a slip of course, but it is gorgeous, I love the light shades of  purple and sage. (McQueen)


June 25, 2015

Estes Park & Lily Lake










In the above photo I am thinking "it's about to rain isn't it?" and then as soon as we got back in the car it did just that! This week my mom and I decided to venture into the nearby Rocky Mountains for a bit of a scenic day out. We headed to Estes Park, a little town in the mountains with more taffy and ice cream shops than any one tiny town needs! Estes is perhaps most known for The Stanley Hotel, one of the most "haunted" hotels in the US, and the inspiration for the Overlook hotel in Stephen King's The Shinning. Though the film wasn't made at The Stanley, King himself shot a Shinning miniseries at the hotel. I am not one for scary movies, so I have actually never seen/read The Shinning...but the hotel itself was pretty! See the last photo below for a shot in front of the hotel.

I wore a rather lady-park-ranger outfit for a day in the mountains, pairing my army green pencil skirt with a new tan blouse! I made this blouse in a flurry of activity on Tuesday night, though I still haven't mastered how to actually sew a shawl collar. The bit at the shoulder alludes me, I am sure it is much less complex than I am making it! This fabric was a dream to work with, I think it is a rayon blend of some kind and feels super soft and comfortable to wear. I am super pleased with how the sleeves came out too, with the cute little cuff! I still have a few more blouses I want to make this summer and a few more tweaks to make to my basic pattern.

I hope you guys are having a lovely week, I'm heading back to my sewing room for another day of creating!

Skirt: Made by me
Blouse: Made by me
Shoes: Nine West
Earrings: Etsy (here)
Necklace: Gift shop at Heaver Castle in England

June 24, 2015

Closet Histories no. 4.10: 18th Century Jewelry

Georgian set of Pink Topaz. From the book “Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830”
 Like the ladies of the previous centuries, and those of the future, 18th century women liked their jewelry! I like their jewelry too, collet necklaces, garnet parures, great sparkling stomacher brooches! After a long break from Closet Histories, lets ease back in by admiring some Georgian jewelry!

Georgian ladies wore necklaces, earrings, and brooches, but also shoe buckles, jeweled buttons, and chatelaines! Not always all at once of course, and sometimes for day jewelry was kept understated or none was worn at all. Ladies could also wear silk ribbons as necklaces when they felt real bling would be too showy, or was too far out of their price range. The first real costume jewelry began in the Georgian era, with "paste" aka glass gems set into less precious metals copying the look of finer jewels.

Georgian jewelry was often made in sets called parures, with matching and interchangeable pieces. Whether made of sparkling amethysts, gold and diamonds, or colorless glass, the charm of Georgian jewelry remains.

Germany, 1730-1760, Marcasites, enamel and silver  V&A
 This silver necklace made up of enameled plaques had the option of changing out the plaques for others, giving the owner versatility. The enamels were probably intimidating turquoise which would have been more expensive.

France, 1760, Opaline and colourless pastes set in silver openwork  V&A
 The V&A says of this piece:

        "This necklace would have fitted closely around the neck like a choker. Very sophisticated imitation jewellery was made in Europe in the 18th century, and it was sold by many of the leading jewellers. Before Australian opals became accessible, the opal was a rare stone. Here its shimmering beauty was achieved by setting a pink foil beneath a milky blue glass."

While royalty may have jewelry made of diamonds, lesser mortals made due with glass!
England, 1760-1780, Silver, garnet  V&A
 Stones, whether precious or mundane, were set with a metal foil back to make them sparkle and shine even more.

France, 1740-1750, Opaline, pastes, faceted, set in silver  V&A
England, 1790-1800, 15kt gold and rock crystal  Ruby Lane
 "The name Parure was first applied in the 17th century and referred to a set of three or more matching pieces of jewelry usually reserved for royalty or aristocrats. The old French word Parure means adornment. The height of the popularity of the Parure was between 1760 and 1830, the Neoclassic Period. This set dates to 1790 to 1800. The riviere (necklace) is decorated with 26 glistening pink topaz foil backed rock crystals ranging in size from 5/8" (1.6cm) to 3/8" ( 1 cm) and set in 15kt gold crimped collets. The necklace has a detachable pendant/brooch which has a height of 1 1/2" (3.75cm) has an integrated loop that enables it to be worn separately as a brooch or pendant or together with the drop suspended from the center of the necklace ."

The back of the above parure, showing how the stones are set and backed in gold.

June 23, 2015

Nile Front Glamour













Okay so the Platte river is probably nothing like the Nile, but it is as close as I will get this summer! I wanted to show you guys my new hat that I finished making last week. I fell in love with the idea of an ivory linen boater with rusty brown trim and just had to create something to fit the bill. I added a bit of Italian millinery straw to the brim edge, layered petersham ribbons on the crown, and finished it all off with a small piece of rusty brown colored antique french veiling!

The little carved wood antelope brooch is a new addition, I think he is just too cute! I made this blouse weeks ago, but somehow it hadn't made it onto the blog yet. It is made of cotton batik, just like my fern print blouse. I really like the warm golden and brown colors of this leafy print! I borrowed my mom's ivory belt to tie the ivory of my hat into the look, and wore a pair of strappy ivory heels that don't often see the light of day. They are a bit too small and end up being crazy painful before long.

I think my intrepid photographer and I are heading up into the mountains tomorrow, so expect some photos from the Rockies later this week!

Top: Made by me
Skirt: Made by me
Hat: Made by me
Shoes: DSW (in like...2008?)
Belt: Borrowed from my Mom
Earrings: Made by me
Brooch: Etsy
Sunglasses: Forever21

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