Thursday, September 22, 2016

Fall Sewing Plans 2016


Lately it seems all I post about are lists! The list-mania of the internet has finally seeped into my brain, or perhaps it is because I just need a vacation, in which case it's good then that I leave for a short trip to California tomorrow afternoon ;) Today however I'll be taking you on a little tour of my stash of fabrics waiting to become new clothes for this fall! 

I am happy to report that my same post from last year turned out to be a mostly successful prediction of the projects I ended up finishing last fall. This year I have a nice stack of different fabrics all awaiting their retro reproduction destinies. Sometimes I see nice things on sale throughout the year that I can't help but snatch up even if I know I won't use them until months and months later, most seamstresses are fabric hoarders though right? Everyone's got a "stash" of fabrics ;)



First we have these three very different fabrics. Starting with the acetate flocked spiderweb taffeta that will become a super fun novelty circle skirt to wear all October long (and the rest of the year too. to be honest). Then there is a simple flowy black polyester that I bought to make a durable 1920's 1 hour dress to wear to work (and with my new Japanese haori jackets). I do want to expand my 1920s sewing to new styles, but you can't blame me for having so many 1 hour dresses, they are just so easy to make and wear! Lastly from this group is the deep purple cotton sateen which will become a circle skirted, 3/4 length sleeve, boatneck dress similar to the one in the glamorous photo above. I love higher necklines for showing off my brooch collection, so I am trying to add more boatneck styles to my wardrobe, and this aubergine color is actually super dark and rich looking in real life (instead of washed out as it looks here).



Then of course one has to get some plaid sewing in for fall! This year I have this nice woven cotton plaid in pink and blue that I want to make into an early 40's dress. The bright colorful yellow plaid taffeta (again some sort of poly or acetate) was an impulse buy from the bargain table, but it has a kind of irridecent quality in motion that really caught my eye. I'm not sure exactly what I want to make out of it yet, though I am thinking either another full circle skirt or possibly a pencil skirt with lots of draping to one side and a puffy bow (in a sorta couture Dior/Vivienne Westwood-ish style).


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The grey blue silk above (it looks oddly saturated here but is a lovely dull grey blue I promise) may look rather plain, but it's actually a very calculated purchase as it is for a bridesmaids dress to wear for one of my best friend's wedding in November. Lightweight silk for November you say? Well it's a beach wedding in Mexico ;) I haven't really decided on the style I'd like to make yet, I was just so happy to have found the right color silk (and on sale!) that I snatched it right up! I am thinking something 30's, and I like both of the vintage options pictured above. The lace dress on the left (I would do the floaty silk over a matching lining) is very simple, which is good as I wouldn't have any trouble replicating something similar. I also like the idea of making a bolero to match that way I could cover my arms up. I've been told the other bridesmaids are going for strappier dresses, and I can certainly do straps for consistency sake, but I prefer to cover my arms so I'd wear the bolero after the ceremony/photos to feel more comfortable. Another arm-covering option is the second vintage dress above with the open shoulder/ruffle combo. The ruffles on my dress wouldn't be as poofy in my slinkier silk, which is a good thing as I don't want to accidentally end up looking like a 1980s bridesmaid instead! Though with this style I'd have to be very precise where that straps do fall as to cover my bra straps. I really can't decide which style to go for, anyone want to give me their two cents? (if the bride happens to be reading this, do leave a comment <3 )

The other fabric above is a most lovely mauve rayon crepe with soft pink and white flowers that called out to me while I was shopping for the grey blue silk. I bought enough for a blouse as I think the soft colors would look great with either of my tan suits.


Then we have the rayon pile. I have accumulated quite a lot of rayon this year... Just look at that grape leaf print though, look at the colors! As if I could resist all of those fall colors together in one glorious print! The other print above has actually been in my stash for a while now, but I just finally figured out how to make it "work" for the 1940's. It really wants to be a 1980s scarf or something, but I'll wrangle it into a 40s dress somehow :)

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Here are some of the rayon dresses that have been inspiring me for ages. I put off making these rayon dresses even though I am dying to wear them because I know I'll have to be extra careful with the slippery rayon when I'm cutting and sewing. With extra work -like finishing the seams inside with seam binding- they will just take more time, but it will be worth it in the end!


Two more rayons that are actually super similar in their colors, so I probably shouldn't have bought them both! (I bought them months apart). The roses print on the left is actually a nicer rayon crepe that feels much more like a real vintage rayon and I can't wait to make a 40's dress out of it. The print on the right is a bit busier and has lavender accents instead of red (so it's actually totally different, *ahem*, right?). Destined again for a 1940s dress, I will soon have a whole collection of rayon 1940s dresses :) If I stop procrastinating that is!



Then we have more evening appropriate fabrics like this brocade (from Gertie's line at Joanns) and the spiderweb sequin net from Joanns Halloween selection this year. I'm planning on a 1950's wiggle dress from the brocade and a 1920's evening dress in the sequin netting. I also need to make a new black silk 1920s slip as I have been without one for months (someone threw my last one in the dryer on high heat *noooooooooooo*). It will be nice to finally have a flapper worthy sequin 20s dress, and in spiderwebs for maximum vamp too! <3

What fabrics are on your counter for this fall? Does anyone have any particular tips for sewing with rayon? Let me know in the comments :)


12 comments:

  1. Well your plans are ambitious, but you're such a prolific sewer that I'm sure the garments will be flying off your sewing table! You have some really, really good things in store. Spiderweb 1920s is top of my want-to-see list! x

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    1. Thanks Porcelina! I usually get a lot done, though this year I have been less productive with my full time job getting in the way of my sewing! But now I can afford to buy more fabric, so trade offs I guess ha!

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  2. Hello! Your plans look lovely. You caught my attention with that sentence on using binding for a seam finish on rayon. I am having both a rayon crush and an Oriental influence crush right now, too. I just bought Victory Patterns Trina and will be working on a toile out of poly this weekend. Have you seen the pattern? So gorgeous. If all goes well, I want to make it out of rayon. I'm guessing you make self bias binding; do you bind both raw edges together or each separately? Do you have any problem with bulk at the seams doing it that way? Thanks so much if you have time to reply. I don't have any great tips for you about rayon except the standards; pre wash, cut with tissue if it's crazy slinky. Use a light coating of spray starch. Thanks so much for your posts which I find constantly inspirational and beautiful. Oh, and I vote for the flutter sleeve dress.

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    1. Thanks Piper! I often make self bias for my projects but I have recently been turned onto rayon seam binding which is super because it is really thin so it doesn't add any bulk. I have done both binding the edges together and binding them individually, and I think separately is the "correct" way so I try and do that most of the time unless I am being really lazy! I also set up my mom's overlock machine recently so for heavier weight fabrics I have been just serging the edges to contain the raw edges.

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  3. The first bridesmaid dress is more like something that could be seen today -- take a look at what the other bridesmaids are doing. If it's more modern, I'd stick to that. (I say that, and I reworked a fluffy 20s dress for my friends wedding as a bridesmaid.) Also, does the bride have much of an image about the wedding?

    Also, maybe try mocking up the top of the fluffy sleeve one. It might not actually look as good on a person as opposed to a drawing. I could see it being tricky like that.

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    1. I'm not sure what the other girls are wearing really, more modern things I am sure but not "bridesmaid" dresses, just modern dresses in their chosen color. Luckily the bride in this case is awesome and not very picky about dresses in general ;) I actually think the second more 30s dress might look more in keeping with the other girls choices oddly enough!

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  4. Can't wait to see what you make. All of your fabrics are gorgeous and the inspiration images too!
    The Artyologist

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  5. Very exciting plans and such splendidly pretty fabrics! If autumn had a flag, it would be plaid based, in my books. :)

    Wishing you an awesome first weekend of fall, sweet dear!

    xoxo ♥ Jessica

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    1. I'm waving that plaid autumn flag proudly! Happy autumn to you too my friend, I hope it's off to a wonderful start for you ;)

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  6. Those floral rayons are clearly completely different colour ways so you were right to get them both! What a fantastic pile of fabrics and lovely plans. I'm excited and they aren't for my wardrobe! Looking forward to seeing your makes.

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