January 10, 2016

The Plaid Suit: Patterning the Jacket

So after my lack of sewing motivation last weekend, I tried to jump back on the wagon this week. Sadly the first result of this effort was nearly finishing a lovely new brocade dress, only to have the zipper break while trying it on and having to cut myself out of the dress. So after that #epicfail, I made a cute navy blue hat as a palate cleanser and then got to work on my suiting projects. I knew that the plaid suit I had sketched out (seen above) could be made by modifying my short sleeved jacket pattern from last summer. I was really happy with how my navy cotton jacket fit, so I used that pattern as a starting point to draft a new more wintry suit jacket pattern.

The summer jacket pattern I started with (why so wrinkled? *sigh*)

I started by modifying the pattern with a few fixes, mainly enlarging the armhole by lowering it at the side seam for some more mobility. I also added a smidgen of extra ease to account for the thicker fabric I'll be using and because this jacket will have a full lining. I changed the armhole princess seam just a bit for a smoother line and modified the jacket front for the lower collarless neckline. I still have to draft facings, the lining pieces, and an entirely new sleeve. Still, the pattern is coming together so far!

Of course I need to make a mock up to make sure this whole plan is going to work. Instead of just using muslin, I knew I wanted something that would better mimic the thicker wool I will be using for the finished jacket. I had some left over thick flannel from a few past skirt projects and so I decided to use both that and a layer of muslin together to better assess the fit of the current jacket pattern. So far I have only sewn together one side front to check the moved around princess seam, and it seems to have worked out just fine. Hopefully I can finish this mock up and get a new working sleeve drafted by next weekend and be ready to start the real jacket! I also have the matching pencil skirt to make, but that's going to be easy compared to matching the plaids on the jacket!

Why do I have to love plaid so much? It certainly slows me down having to do pattern matching! How are you all doing on your sewing projects so far this year?


  1. Plaid is marvelous. Really and truly. I share your love it it big time and would say it's in my top three favourite patterns. No matter the season, I'll reach for it and know I'd sew with plaid a ton, were I seamstress, too.

    Best of luck with the jacket. That earthy red clay hue is going to be so gorgeous with your dark locks!

    ♥ Jessica

    1. Thanks Jessica! The real jacket will be in deep green and navy plaid, though the mock up in red and orange plaids is ending up very loud and crazy looking!

  2. This looks so complicated to me, I am so impressed with your skills. A plaid jacket will be well worth the effort!

    1. Thanks Kate, it looks complicate to me too! I worked on the pattern and mock up all day today, and it's coming along well. I just have to figure out the sleeve pattern now :)


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