As evidenced by my habit of waxing poetically about them, hats are one of my passions! Today I thought we would take a look at a few of the more prominent hat styles of the later half of the 18th century. Firstly a note about caps!
|Cap, Mid 18th century, European, Cotton, MET|
- A Most Beguiling Accomplishment: Earlier 18th Century Caps
- Isis' Wardrobe: Extant 18th Century Caps
- Isis' Wardrobe: 18th Century Wired Caps
- The Margret Hunter Millinery Shop of Colonial Williamsburg makes wonderful froofy caps!
- Some more excellent cap reproductions here!
|Portrait of a lady said to be Mrs Godwin, neé Wollstonecraft (1759-1797) , 1792|
To begin, we will take a look at one of the most popular styles of hat in the 18th century, the bergère! The bergère was a rather flat, round, low crowed had, usually made of straw whether covered with silk on top or not. Decorated with a simple ribbon or a profusion of trimmings, the bergère could be worn curved over the hair, tied onto the front at a rather precarious angle, or simply tied over one's cap flat on the head. Lets take a look at a few bergère...
|The White Hat, about 1780, Jean-Baptiste Greuze, MFA|
hat is covered in white silk, then trimmed with pleated sheer fabric, an ostrich feather and ribbon.
|Margaret Woffington, ca. 1760, Nathaniel Hone, The Tansey Miniatures Foundation|
|Hat (bergère), French, 18th Century, MFA|
|Underside of the same hat, Hat (bergère), French, 18th Century, MFA|
|Detail lining, bergère, Netherlands, c.1725-1775. Straw hat with green and red striped silk ribbons, fully lined with cotton (indienne fabric).|
|Underside of the hat above!|
So simple on the top and so colorful and busy on the bottom!
|Provenance/Rights: Landesmuseum Württemberg, Stuttgart (Photo: P. Frankenstein; H. Zwietsch)|
|Bergère, The Netherlands, 1750-1800. Straw, with a flat crown, grey silk ribbon with woven flowers in pink and purple, underside with a flowered satin lining.|
|Hat, 1720-50, Italian, Silk, MET|
|Colonial Williamsburg Bergere Hat 1760-1785 English, silk over straw, replaced ties|
|Bergère, Great Britain, 1750-1780. Straw, covered in cream silk, outer edge trimmed with cream lace, decorated with cream silk ribbons.|
Then we have another variety of hat, that I don't have a name for, in a similar shape to the bergère only with a taller crown. When I say taller, I don't mean by much. I am tempted to just call these hats picture hats, as the huge brims certainly do frame the face!
|The Honourable Elizabeth Ingram (1762–1817)||(later Mrs Hugo Meynell), 1787, Leeds Museum|
|Mrs. Downey by Sir Henry Raeburn, 1788|
|Woman's Straw Hat, 1750-75, England or France, MFA|
|"Lady Elizabeth Foster" (in a chemise a la reine), Angelica Kauffman, 1785; Ickworth House|
|Duchess of Devonshire by Thomas Gainsborough, 1785–87|
Then after the shorter crowned picture hats, there are the taller crowed hats!
|Mary Boteler (c.1763–1852)||by John Hoppner, 1786|
|Anna Maria and Thomas Jenkins, by Angelica Kauffman, 1790. National Portrait Gallery (London)|
|Catherine Clemens, George Romney, 1788|
|Portrait of Marie Dauncey, 1789, by James Northcote|
|Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723–1792)||Elizabeth, Lady Taylor, ca. 1780|
|Fashion plate of unknown origin, if you know, let me know!|
|Black silk bonnet "Market Hat" from the collections of Colonial Williamsburg.|
|"Portrait of Miss Palmer" by Sir Joshua Reynolds,|
|A reproduction by the Mantua makers of Colonial Williamsburg|
I haven't even touched on turbans...
|Jean-Étienne Liotard, Portrait of a Young Woman, late 18th century|
|"Dorothy Walpole, Viscountess Townshend", Charles Jervas, ca. 1718; Dulwich Picture Gallery|
|"Portrait d'Aglaé de Gramont née de Polignac, duchesse de Guiche" by Louise Élisabeth Vigée Lebrun (1794)|